A Weekend in the Smokies

Almost everything about a Smokies weekend is decided by drive time and by when the crowds show up. Plan around those two and the rest falls into place.

One rule governs the whole weekend. The park is best in the morning and the towns are best in the afternoon. The Park Service says most visitors arrive between 10 and 11 a.m. Anything you want to do inside the park should already be underway by then.

Saturday morning, the park

Be on Newfound Gap Road by eight. Earlier in October, when the park tells people to arrive before 8 a.m. or after 4 p.m.

Head south from Sugarlands and climb to Newfound Gap, 5,046 feet, on the Tennessee and North Carolina line. That is about half an hour without stops, and you will stop. Deep Creek Valley Overlook on the far side is the one to catch early, while clouds are still sitting in the valley.

If Kuwohi Road is open, roughly April through late November, the spur runs seven miles and then a half-mile paved walk to the tower. That half mile is steep. Parking fills, so have a backup.

Two things about the morning. Cell service in the park is essentially absent, so download your map at the cabin. And you need a parking tag, five dollars a day, if you stop anywhere more than fifteen minutes. Your America the Beautiful pass does not cover it.

Saturday afternoon, Gatlinburg

Come down and park once. Gatlinburg is walkable and moving your car is the mistake. Better still, park free at the Welcome Center on Banner Road and ride the trolley in. It costs nothing.

This is the window for whatever your group actually wants. The town is compact enough to decide late.

Saturday evening

A show, booked in advance. Pigeon Forge is fifteen minutes up the Parkway and the dinner shows sell out on weekends.

Sunday morning

A short hike or a slower stretch of road before the ten o'clock wave. If you want something easy, the Gatlinburg Trail runs from River Road to Sugarlands, flat the whole way, and dogs are allowed.

Sunday afternoon, Pigeon Forge or Sevierville

Pigeon Forge for attractions, Sevierville for outlet shopping and a calmer exit. Both are on your way out.

If it rains

It will, at some point. The mountains make their own weather and a summer afternoon storm is a schedule rather than a surprise. Swap the park morning for an indoor afternoon and run the weekend backwards.

Two things to know before you buy a multi-attraction pass on a wet day. Several attractions on the big combo passes are outdoors, so a large pass can leave you paying for slots you cannot use. And the museums that require timed reservations cannot be booked from a parking lot at two in the afternoon. Book the night before if the forecast looks bad.

Before you go

Read the bear safety piece. Roughly 1,900 black bears live in this park, about two per square mile, and seeing one is normal rather than lucky.

Check the coupon pages. Several restaurants, shows and attractions run offers through the guide.